Dress codes: how the laws of fashion made history

Abstract

A law professor and cultural critic offers an eye-opening exploration of the laws of fashion throughout history, from the middle ages to the present day, examining the canons, mores and customs of clothing rules that we often take for granted.

Contents

Historical milestones and important dress codes -- Introduction -- Part one: Status symbols -- Chapter one: Encoding status. Concerning the excessive display of trunk hose, crowns, ruffled collars, velvet, and crimson silk -- Chapter two: Self-fashioning. Regarding togas, gowns, robes, and tailored clothing -- Chapter three: Signs of faith. On the matter of dresses with indulgently long trains, earrings and other vanities, and on the habits of women religious--inspired by Christian Dior -- Chapter four: Sex symbols. On the subject of plate armor and associated undergarments, masks, and costumes -- Part two: From opulence to elegance -- Chapter five: The great masculine renunciation. On the frock coat, tartan and kilt, civilian uniforms, and powdered wigs, both large and modest -- Chapter six: Style and status. The importance of the well-dressed man's basic black suit and the elegant woman's eight daily toilettes; the prevalence of silk and velvet waistcoats and the art of the perfectly tied cravat -- Chapter seven: Sex and simplicity. The merits of tailored coats, whaleboned corsets, full skirts and petticoats, and neoclassical gowns -- Chapter eight: The "rational dress" movement. The inconveniences of bloomers, tight-laced corsets, starched collared shirts, and suits with short trousers -- Chapter nine: Flapper feminism. The scandal of drop-waisted shifts, bobbed hair, Cupid's bow lips, dancing flats, Bakelite earrings, and the Symington side lacer -- Part three: Power dressing -- Chapter ten: Slaves to fashion? The allure and danger of dressing above one's condition in pumps with silver buckles, a hat cocked in the Macaroni fashion, or a Jack Johnson plaid suit-- Chapter eleven: From rags to resistance. Seen on the scene: Zoot suits, cotillion gowns, pressed hair, and Sunday best; Afros and overalls, Dashikis, black turtlenecks, and black leather coats -- Chapter twelve: Sagging and subordination. Represent the race! Don't wear sagging pants, gang colors, hoodie sweatshirts, or decorative orthodontic devices (aka Grillz) -- Part four: Politics and personality -- Chapter thirteen: How to dress like a woman. Your personal best: teased, curled, or styled hair, lipstick, foundation, eyeliner, blush, bunny ears and satin maillot, high heels. Overdoing it: bared clavicles, yoga pants, miniskirts, "smart" jeans. In re. ladies in the law: skirts, nylons, makeup, nothing low-cut, a feminized morning suit -- Chapter fourteen: Recoding gender. Clothing not belonging to your sex: prom night tuxedoes, blue (or pink) for boys, pink (or blue) for girls, miniskirts, tutus, and tailored suits -- Chapter fifteen: Piercing the veil. Outlawed as indecent or condemned as sacrilegious: headscarves, Burkas, burkinis, bikinis, sexy Sheitels, hip Hijabs, and Covergirl makeup -- Part five: Retailored expectations -- Chapter sixteen: Merit badges. Appropriate for the workplace: Red-soled Louboutins, a 21 Club tie, a blue blazer, the preppy look, red sneakers, a Patagonia vest, a gray or black t-shirt. Inappropriate; designer dresses, high heels, suits -- Chapter seventeen: Artifice and appropriation. Outfits for cultural tourism: bleached blonde hair, dreadlocks, hoop earrings, a Cheongsam, a pink polo, an abacost, European luxury tailoring -- Conclusion : Decoding dress codes -- Epilogue : Dress codes stripped bare.